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Cntrybo2
Posts:9

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| 02/24/2011 6:38 PM |
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I just got my first GSP, good dog from a good bloodline. The guy i got him from did not spend any puppy time with him as he has 4 other GSP and in his words never took the time to focus on this dog. Now the dog is a year old (almost exactly) and i am starting to work wtih him on trianing to be a good bird dog. I have the 4 volume george hickox DVD and am starting him on birds and intoducing him to guns. then we will begin yard training. the problem i am noticing is that when we do backyard pigeon work the dog isnt pointing. in the field, he will point a little bit but nothing like you would expect. This is my first GSP and my first shot a training a bird dog. Any words of wisdom would be appreciated and very much welcomed. Thank you! |
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7855


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| 02/24/2011 7:21 PM |
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| Get him on lots of birds in the field and let him have some fun chasing the birds for now. Forget about everything else until he is bird crazy. It won't take too long. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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trueblushorthairs
 MH Posts:129


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| 02/25/2011 9:39 AM |
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First, and I don't know if you know this, but make sure the dog loves birds, points, chases, just psycho over them before you introduce gun shots. Second, get out of the backyard and get the dog to large fields that he can learn to range, be independent, and obviously learn to hunt. Let him learn, let him range, but don't hack him around. Plant a FEW birds on edges, likely cover, preferably hard flying birds that will flush hard when pressured. You say he is not pointing, has he caught some birds? Were their wings wrapped and he picked them up? Are the birds you are putting out in the backyard in plain sight? Don't want to argue with Texas Belle, people hear "birds, birds, birds" and they often overdo the birdwork. Too many birds causes more problems than it cures. Flagging, dogs ceasing to point, boredom, short ranging, etc. A few birds, ON OCCASION, keeps the fun and excitement in birdwork for the dog. |
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7855


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| 02/25/2011 11:17 AM |
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| Trueblue - I agree, but then that applies to training across the board. You always want to leave the dog wanting more whether in the field or in obedience or anywhere else. I also like to finish on a positive whenever I do training of any kind. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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trueblushorthairs
 MH Posts:129


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| 02/25/2011 2:57 PM |
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That works, just don't train and then they'll really want more!! I have one like that, road for an hour and he still eats the kennel!! have a good weekend. |
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Cntrybo2
Posts:9

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| 02/25/2011 3:03 PM |
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So if i am understanding correctly, it would be wise to get 5 or 6 birds and plant them around a field edge or in a good broom sedge area then bring the dog in, let him flush the birds and chase them after he flushes and then on to the next bird?
Should i allow the dog to see me plant the birds or make it a real hunting scenario?
I am a forester, so he has been going to work with me on a somewhat frequent basis and he is starting to range and become a little more confident in the woods/ field which makes me very happy. I introduced a pigeon the other night and when he got his mouth on that thing he was a changed dog, my wife now calls the pigeons, "dog crack". I am hoping to do a little more pigeon work this weekend, banding off their flight feathers and letting them go and allowing him to chase.
Once question with this, should i be focusing on him returning the bird to me or just keep this a game and not focus on the work just yet? The last time i did this, i let him run with a check cord on him and when he would try and bolt with the bird, i would get the cord and bring him in this way.
Keep the advice coming gentelmen, I am all ears and very much so appreciate it. |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4452


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| 02/25/2011 4:39 PM |
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Keep the advice coming gentelmen Well, not quite. If your main focus is a gundog then get the dog in the fields and woods and get him to use his nose. See if he is aware of your location. Start him on turning with you and if you are satified with if he checks in and how he checks in. Or, is he self hunting. I would not let him see you plant birds, I would not have him interested,for now, about any birds he can see - like the pigeons you have. I would forget about gun fire. If he needs manners around the house then teach obedience - there are stages to learning, make sure you know them. At this stage you need to know how he searches, if he points and his prey drive level. Have fun. Francine |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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zodiakgsps NW PA
 MH Posts:1059


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| 02/25/2011 5:41 PM |
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CntryBo2, are you planning on making it so the birds cannot fly away & he catches them?? Your quote: Once question with this, should i be focusing on him returning the bird to me or just keep this a game and not focus on the work just yet? The last time i did this, i let him run with a check cord on him and when he would try and bolt with the bird, i would get the cord and bring him in this way. At this point, you DO NOT want him catching, this will only instill him to bump birds. The whole point of using hard flying birds as tru stated, is so when the dog bumps the bird and chases, he cannot catch them. Soon he will learn chasing is futile & will (should) start pointing harder & longer. (a cpl caught birds isn't the end to the world, but try to avoid it) Sounds like he has bird drive. Don't let him watch you plant the birds, use good quail or pigeons in launchers if possible. If he points, BE QUIET, don't even praise. Walk up calmly and to his side, not from behind him -swing around and walk towards his side & try to get ahead of him and flush. If he breaks and chases, BE QUIET, he is not trained yet, anything you say to stop him will only teach him to ignore you right now. Once he chases for 100 yds or so, call him around & get him into the next bird, always remember to try to use the wind. Don't talk much when he is working, you only need to make vocal contact to turn him so he stays with/ahead of you. To much talking only causes loss of focus for young dogs & makes them ignore you more..... At home, in your yard with NO birds, you can start teaching a good recall and whoa. (NO birds right now!!! Strictly yard/obedience work) Keep it short and sweet, don't bore him or get to the point of frustration. In his head, he is a baby at starting level. Keep things basic right now. Good luck!! |
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Cntrybo2
Posts:9

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| 02/25/2011 8:24 PM |
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Zodiak,
To explain my pigeon work further, in watching the hickox video, there is a section where george demonstrates wing locking a pigeon and tossing it 10-15' and letting the dog get the bird. Then once the dog is comfortable with this, you put a rubber band around the pigeons flying feathers and throw the bird int he air, this allows the bird to fly 20-25 yards and the dog chases and catches the bird when it hits the ground. At now point is the dog pointing or jumping the bird but rather just chasing after you toss it. according to george, once this goes well, you would use the same pigeon release method when intorducing the gun.
This DVD is the only guidance I have this far and is what the guy i got the dog from has used on his other 5 dogs and has worked successfully. with that said, i am by no means saying this is the only way. just the only way i have been exposed to. do you think this methodology is not recommended for my age of dog? |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4452


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| 02/25/2011 9:06 PM |
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I don't know why a tethered pigeon would be more important than search,drive and point, at any age. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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zodiakgsps NW PA
 MH Posts:1059


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| 02/25/2011 9:08 PM |
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I have personally never seen this method used by any of the pros I worked with before. (several who have had FC's in AKC and AF) Actually have yet to see any trainer do this, has anyone else here seen this used??? We always try to avoid having the dog catch, catching to many birds usually induces a dog to flush rather than point. I have never watched Hickox video & would have to see the entire process to comment further on it, am curious as to his methods now though....... Perfect Start/Perfect Finish is a good video IMO on training pointing dogs. That said, I will allow a new dog (any age, one being intro'd to birds) to handle a cpl birds to start out & make sure they will pick up a bird, but only use good flying birds they cannot catch after that. Once the dog is "hot" for birds, I will intro a blank when dog is chasing & focused on a bird, then move to a shotgun using the same process. I know one thing, once my 7 mnth old figured out a bird couldn't fly far/well, that bird would be toast, LOL!!! (and that would take one time of me throwing it, he's a smart booger) |
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trueblushorthairs
 MH Posts:129


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| 02/28/2011 11:15 AM |
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| I can't speak for the scenario of a dog catching birds unless he is force breaking the dog to retrieve, has a dog that is birdshy, etc. As Zodiak says, at this point we do not want the dog catching birds. Yes, set it up in a hunting scenario. I disagree with checkcord and turning a dog, particularly if you have planted birds. In a wild bird situation you will never know where birds are so "guiding" the dog into birds won't happen when hunting wild birds. Further, I would not put 5 or 6 birds out. I would lightly dizzy a pigeon or free release a hard flying pen quail or two and let the dog hunt. Maybe a little guidance into a birdy area on occasion but generally allow the dog to learn to hunt, so plant birds upwind in likely birdy objectives in places where a dog should hunt if hunting. A hard flying bird or two, on occasion, teaches, while 5 or 6 birds, hard planted or shackled, teaches far too many bad things IMHO. Fewer is always always better!! Unless birds are wild, then the more the merrier. |
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Cntrybo2
Posts:9

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| 02/28/2011 6:59 PM |
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True,
very interesting insight. I like the idea of planting a bird or two.
My newest question is...
I have two pigeons (homers). These birds are imprinted on someone elses coop. My question is, what do you think of hobbles or lanyards? would allowing the bird to fly 50' before being downed be instilling the wrong idea for the dog or would this be enough to get the point across to him? The lady who owns the pigeons lives about 45 minutes away and i would have to drive that distance to go pick my birds up.... I am all ears yall! |
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trueblushorthairs
 MH Posts:129


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| 03/01/2011 9:48 AM |
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Birds are by far the cheapest cost in dog training. But, with that said, I would suggest doing one of several things, finding someone who sells well flight conditioned quail or chukar that you can free release, let wander for a few minutes, then bring the dog in to point, hold, bump, chase, etc. WITHOUT catching. If the dog starts catching then use a checkcord and just hold him up enough when he breaks so that he doesn't run the birds down. Most all pups have caught a few birds so not exactly a tragedy. Certainly, wild birds have NO substitute. One day on wild birds teaches a dog a hundred times more than many days with stupid pen birds. If you just have to put a hose or some type of shackle on pigeons then be sure to use a checkcord so the dog doesn't run them down. Not everyone has access to 10000 acres full of wild birds. In fact, most of us in Oklahoma and Texas don't have that luxury anymore either. But, you need to simulate wild bird hunting as much as possible. The dog doesn't need to be catching birds one way or another. There isn't a healthy wild bird in the world that will be caught by a dog. Since you may not have wild, do the best you can!! Point is to make the dog figure out on his own that he can't catch birds and he will slow his chasing or stop it altogether. My 3 year old dog was about dead broke at a year. He had seen around 100 covey of wild bobs and he soon figured out that if he bumped and chased he didn't get a bird in his mouth. His only reward was handling birds properly. |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4452


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| 03/01/2011 9:52 AM |
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quote]the problem i am noticing is that when we do backyard pigeon work the dog isnt pointing. in the field, he will point a little bit but nothing like you would expect let him flush the birds and chase them after he flushes and then on to the next bird? forget backyard bird work unless you are begining the whoaing process. I don't like to start whoa until I know the dog is confident using his nose, the wind and is pointing staunch. If he doesn't point get him on birds that fly away and don't come back. If he is a dog who loves the chase you may want to put a check cord on him to stop him. Yardwork does not make a hunting dog - it makes a hunting dog better. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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Cntrybo2
Posts:9

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| 03/07/2011 5:43 PM |
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I wanted to bring all of you up to speed. I have had a hard time finding quail so I took my pigeons to the training field behind my house and placed them on 75' really light lines and anchored the end to the ground. I hid the birds in depressions in the field out of sight and then brought the dog in and let him "hunt". I was really amazed how he responded once he got a feel for what he was supposed to be doing. Initially he walked right by the first pigeon and didnt pay it any mind, then i think it set in and he ran down wind, and started zig zaging back up the field, and BAM, pointed and held point for a good minute. Once he couldnt hold it anymore, he broke and the bird flew. I had a 50' check cord attached to him which i grabbed after he went on point, so i was able to hold him back from grabbing the pigeon mid flight (and he tried). I plan on doing this until i can get my hands on some quail. It was a very proud momment for me, he held point very well, and allowed my to walk from behind him to infront of him and then in between him and the bird and never flinched. I think i might have a bird dog on my hands ladies and gentlemen!!! |
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Smylinacha Connecticut
 MH Posts:1208


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| 03/08/2011 7:12 PM |
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| Wow that is exciting! We have a 2 yr old gsp and I don't think anyone did anything with him either. My husband will be working with him soon as he has hunted with other gsp's. First gsp I ever had - it's amazing how smart they are. Keep us up to date and add pics! |
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trueblushorthairs
 MH Posts:129


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| 03/09/2011 7:26 AM |
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| That's great. The natural inclination for a new trainer is to now work on this new found trick. Just don't overdo it. Once a week is enough in most cases. Get him out and let him range, run, explore, etc. Let him learn to hunt and just know he needs to learn to hunt at this point more than about anything else!! |
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Cntrybo2
Posts:9

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| 03/09/2011 7:05 PM |
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Yeah, i am very happy. We worked together last weekend and am planning on working him again this weekend. Like you said, once a week is my plan. My goal is to get him on some quail soon, my biggest fear is to get an awsome pigeon dog that doesnt know what a quail smells like! haha
When you say teach him to hunt, are you implying that i could stick with the two pigeons and increase the field size and distance between birds and let him range to find them? In my mind that was the next step but if you see a fatal flaw with this please let me know. |
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trueblushorthairs
 MH Posts:129


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| 03/10/2011 7:17 AM |
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No flaw in that except for the fact that you will need to read the dog or find a mentor who can look at him, watch him, see him search, range, body language, etc. and read what he needs. To make a birddog the dog needs much much more than to point and hold birds. He must learn obedience, learn to hunt for you, but at the same time learn to range and be independent enough that he searches as far and wide as is needed in the areas where you will hunt. He must learn to hunt, meaning...use the wind properly, hunt to the front, turn when you want him to or when his experience teaches him he needs to to hunt cover properly, to seek game, to track enough so that he can hold birds but won't flush, etc. etc.
Judging AKC hunting tests, I've seen a ton of dogs that will point and hold birds but have little or no desire, little range, and must be hacked to birds. Owners feel that if their dog points, then they should be considered an effective hunting dog. But, if the dog ranges 20 yards, is always looking for direction, and has to be directed to game, the dog is useless, other than as a food sucking pet. Maybe enough for some.
I can't answer if you can train a dog with two birds. Depends on what you are wanting to get out of the dog. Dogs needs birds. They need experience and experiences. They need situations and different types of cover, terrain, etc. IMHO, you need to find at bare minimum, a hunting preserve to get the dog into birds, and really, you need to plan a time to spend some time putting the dog on wild birds if at all possible. Birds don't make birddogs, WILD birds make birddogs. |
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