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knightfarms Cleveland Heights, Ohio
 MH Posts:87


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| 11/01/2011 6:55 AM |
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I need some ideas about exercising my almost 11month dog who is being a knucklehead, and lost his right to run at large for the very moment.I've got the independence part of the gun dog equation covered in excess.
Or maybe I need advice on how to get the knucklehead's recall back to being rock solid when he's out of sight and ranging at 2-300 yards. He's collar conditioned, and works well within 100 or so yards, but then he hits another gear and he's off to the races.
Either way, I don't have a garmin (yet) and Cooper's new found adolenscent "listening" is making me a little nervous because of his long range tendencies... especially if he's "going deaf". His recall is great in my yard and on football fields (city folks), but we get out to the training grounds where there's no fences and off the check cord and nothin! I don't have a horse or ATV to keep up with him, and we can use those at the grounds cause they are classified as a conseervation area anyway. I don't think that it's doing any good to nic him or use the collar if I can't tell when he's coming back or tuning me out.
Apparently, I really needed to vent a little, too. Any and all suggestions of 1. tiring this pup out without compromising his growing body 2. Field recall drills
Thanks in advance.
-Cheryl
ps. this is the same dog who wore a spider costume and went trick or treating for 2 hours last night, so he IS a good boy, and I do love him 99% of the time |
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He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. -Unknown |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4449


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| 11/02/2011 8:14 AM |
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Not sure if you want to limit his range or to handle better? I think you want him to handle better? I can only give suggestions from a non horseback trial hunter's perpective. 1) get obedience more solid,but truethfully, I don't think obedience is you sole answer. Getting him to obey the command with the ecollar as reinfocement is the key. He seems to be blowing you off - and for good reason - he knows he can. The commands and collar need to be used before he disappears, before you know the selctive hearing sets in,if that's 100 yards turn him at 50 yards. 2) learn to handle him better teach him to turn,pay attention,work as a team he is self hunting 3) I would use the ecollar even if I didn't know what he was doing(not refering to pointing) if you are giving commands and they are being ignored this is your fault - he needs to be taught what the stim of the collar means and if the verbal/whistle command is always backed up by the collar - go back to basics and solidify commands I'll give him some slack b/c of his age but truethfully - I've been there and it's BS. Don't know if any of this will shorten his range and interfer with HB trials. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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knightfarms Cleveland Heights, Ohio
 MH Posts:87


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| 11/02/2011 9:25 AM |
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Thanks Pixie.
I posted this on another board and got a lot of folks telling me to get rid of the dog if I couldn't handle him and other super negative things, so I took it down. I don't want to get rid of the dog, I just want to kill him sometimes 
He is fairly obedient, but I wouldn't bet my house on them anymore since he's hit puberty. LOL. I could definitely stand to reenforce them a bit more to make sure he knows that we're not playing and he has to listen.
I do not want to limit his range at this point just because i'm not 100% comfortable right now. I just need to work on the e-collar commands, too, though, cause he's blasting thru it if he doesn't want to listen.
I feel like I'm toying with a fine line of getting him to listen and too much handling? He is young and I want to be a bit lenient, but we're only talking about recall. I guess I feel like a dog at any age better come back when called.
He is most definitely hunting for himself and couldn't really care what I'm doing at this point, and that's why we are on a bird hiatus (sp).
One last question: What's the order for whistle overlay with the collar? Collar then whistle? I'm not a big whistle person but I am working on whistle training because there's only so far my voice carries. I'm overlaying my voice commands and won't start working in the collar until he's got it, but I'm just double checking the order. |
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He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. -Unknown |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4449


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| 11/02/2011 10:29 AM |
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it's difficult to tell anyone what to do w/o being there and seeing the dog. If he's blowing thru the stim then it's not high enough. if you are worried about "damage" from the collar I think you would be wrong - he seems like a pretty confident,self absorbed, dominate dog, to me. Are you sure he knows what the stim means? Have you specifically conditioned he to know what the correction means? When teaching any command it MUST be simpified, don't think your dog SHOULD know what it means. If he doesn't he probably doesn't. Give the whistle command, then verbal, after a while you can drop the verbal,but still use it often so he remembers. This is a fantastic method: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BDM78DYARc&feature=related You need to work on whoaing at a distance,whoaing while moving away from you and running.Same with the recall. Teach him to turn,to check in and increase cooperation. Carry a bird with you or a retrieve object, recall him and reinforce it with a toss of the object to retrieve,it would be good if he didnt run off with it,tho. Do you have intentions of teaching force fetch or some fetch training? When I give a command that is being learned I give the command and stim at the same time.When it is learned the stim is given a second after the command is ignored. the stim MUST match the dog's drive at the time. Don't listen to anyone who tells you to get rid of him. Horseback trial dogs are raised differently then mine, with different expectations. I can see where those people are coming from and would tend to agree with them. You never said how you get him back to you? I am assuming he returns when he's ready? If yes, says a lot about him - all good. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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knightfarms Cleveland Heights, Ohio
 MH Posts:87


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| 11/02/2011 11:10 AM |
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Are you sure he knows what the stim means? Have you specifically conditioned he to know what the correction means?
- I thought the answer was yes until a few days ago when he was running and totally blowing me off at a 5. Obvious sign that he either isn't sure what it means or is sure he doesn't have to respond to it. I'm thinking that he's got a date with a 100' cord and the open field at the training grounds. I haven't really worked on closer range stuff before like bending and retrieving out there because I hadn't had any recall issues and that's our place too RUN!!!! The issue with the big runs is that our training grounds are not wide open aside from one large but slightly tall grassed field so after 30 seconds he's out of sight.
We definitely need to work on the whoa-ing while moving. I was diligent about the whoa post and whoa-ing on a check cord for a while, but admittedly have gotten lax. I'd be lucky to win a $5 bet on his whoa now. 
He fetches well at this point in the yard and in water, haven't really done drills in the field, but I plan on doing a force fetch once needed for broke work in the field trials. I figure some time next year as we're still running in puppies now and have all of next fall to run Derby.
How to I get him back? He comes back to me. The other day was the first day that I felt he was being a total jerk and ignoring me. I could hear his bell sometimes (100-200yds), so I know he could hear me (I'm loud and it was a clear day), and he didn't come find me. Before that, the only times that he didn't find me was when he was chasing birds (yes, chasing not pointing- whole different story). In retrospect, though, over the last month, he's been a little slower to return to me and check in once commanded. He's not hopeless, I've just let him get a wee bit too independent at the training grounds and he thinks he can just do whatever he wants. |
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He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. -Unknown |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4449


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| 11/02/2011 2:13 PM |
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| haven't really worked on closer range stuff before like bending and retrieving out there because I hadn't had any recall issues and that's our place too RUN!!!! A couple things wrong here,as I see it: always work on cooperation - bending,team work,checking in and you need control in every place you take him - no such thing as "our special place" Force fetch, if done properly, is so much more than retrieving. I would recommend doing this now. If you're calling him and he hears he doesn't have to come find you - he aleady knows where you are! If he's chasing and not pointing it's time to get serious with birds. This is not something to be encouraged or let slip until you're ready. you have goals with him and he neeeds to meet them. quote]I've just let him get a wee bit too independent at the training grounds and he thinks he can just do whatever he wants. Just a wee bit? |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7839


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| 11/02/2011 4:52 PM |
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I agree with what pixie has said. Most dogs if you give them an inch they take the mile and then some. Consistency is key regardless of what you are training for with your dog. As for the recall, I demand as close to a 100% recall as you can get with my dogs regardless of what we are doing. I hike in the CO high country and it can mean life or death if they do not come when called (and I don't care what they are doing). I work the recall separate from anything else and do not work the recall where I do the bird training. I have two recalls, 1) for the obedience ring which is the come and sit in front version (my come command) and 2) the get your behind back to me no matter what and check in recall (which is my here command). I make sure my dogs know here in controlled situations on longer and longer lines, then off leash controlled, then back to the line in scenarios with distractions, etc until they are responding no matter what on leash. During this time I do collar conditioning as well. They wear the ecollar for a long time before I ever use it as I do not want a collar wise dog. Eventually (and this is literally after 100s of recalls) we do the final reinforcer. I take the dog somewhere fun with lots of interesting smells (but no birds) and let them off leash collar on. Once they get pretty far from me, but still within site I call them. If they come they get a reward, if not I hit and hold the button on the collar (no response the power gets up), once I get a look back or movement back, I release the stim. Usually only takes one time and then are good. I repeat the process for deer, rabbit etc because I want to be able to call my dogs off of animals too. I never do it with birds though because I do not want a bad association with birds (same reason I don't do this training anywhere near where I work them on birds). The stim level varies from dog to dog. For my sweet girl, Halo, I had to up the power almost too a nine to get her attention. Same issue when she was snake trained. She is much tougher than she looks. My boy was so easy he responded to a level 1. Once they understand the stim then usually just a nick on a lower setting is all it takes if they need a reminder. However, if done right you will have a here that is darn reliable even without the collar being on the dog. I generally do not put the collar on once my dog is trained except when we hike in CO. I want the insurance up there especially when the bears are moving around with cubs. So far, I have been able to call my dogs off of deer, elk, rabbits, fox, armadillos, marmots, beaver, possums, squirrels, cats, skunks, etc. Thankfully we have never had a close encounter with bear. I have not had this method ever impact the way my dogs hunt (I do hunt tests with my shorthairs and the occasional field trial) and my boy has some pretty good wheels and loves to cover the ground when he is hunting. At 11 months your boy is also testing everything, including you, and the male hormones are raging. Just stay firm and consistent, and keep training and working with him, and you will get through these teenage dog years. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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Rose
 MH Posts:362

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| 11/02/2011 11:06 PM |
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Great info. Curious Texas Belle, how long are your training sessions for recall and how many times a week do you train recall? Was there an age when the dog became reliable with recall or was it different for each dog? |
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7839


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| 11/03/2011 9:01 AM |
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| Training sessions are very short (5 to 10 minutes), but several times a day or whenever I think about it or whenever a good opportunity arises. I do hundreds in various places over a period of time before we are ever ready for the proofing and then the ecollar. The age varies with the dog. For Belle she was about 5 months when she was reliable and never had to use an ecollar with her (but she is the exception to the rule). With Halo she was 2 YO before we ever got to the ecollar and I had to use high settings with her. Ringo was about a year old when he was where I wanted him to be and I introduced the ecollar. Fauna I have not done allot of recall training with yet, but she is pretty good at a year. No ecollar work at all with her yet either. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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tgatto Lake in the Hills, IL
 MH Posts:411


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| 11/07/2011 1:52 PM |
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I have to agree with everything Pixie Bee and Texas Belle said - focus on Obedience. I would add that it is important that (initially) the dog is not really given an option to "not comply". Breaking would seem to indicate that you should go back and enforce the basics again - especially in the area that the dog broke, and would not listen to commands. In this case, it would be back on the leash, and work Sit, Whoa, Heel, and Come (incorporating whistle where appropriate).
I have a very similar situation (living in the suburbs of Chicago). I cannot afford for my dog to break, and go wandering the neighborhood. I spend a lot of time on the leash ensuring the dog obeys basic obedience before removing the leash. This means I start with demonstration, and positive reinforcement. Once the dog seems to understand the command, I then integrate the e-collar in avoidance training (continuous stimulation applied simultaneously with the command, and removed when the dog complies). Once the dog obeys without stimulation, I move to momentary stimulation if the dog does not obey.
With Sadie, I know I will need more exercise in a controlled environment. You may (once training is improved) consider "roading" the dog. Check out www.alpineoutfitters.net/secure/scripts/default.asp. Don't road a dog without a properly fitted harness (No, I don't work for Alpine!). |
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It is watching the dogs work that I thoroughly enjoy, and love. I could get by with just watching them work - if it weren't for all the training, and the joy they exhibit when they pick-up, and deilver to hand a bird that they pointed, and you shot. - Todd |
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knightfarms Cleveland Heights, Ohio
 MH Posts:87


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| 11/10/2011 6:47 PM |
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UPDATE
First, thanks everyone for making me realize that I had gotten lazy in my everyday work and Cooper was just giving me the same effort I had been giving him.
I'm a planner by nature and trade, so I made a plan and have been sticking to it.
- Lots of recall and whoa work in 10-15 minutes or less in every situation I can drag him in to with the e-collar on and a 40ish' biothane check strap.
- yard (excellent even off lead)
- football fields (good, but those stands with food are hard to ignor for a young pup.)
- dog parks (this is my super controlled off lead area aside from my yard- I would give him an excellent on this too, but it's small. Lots of distractions, though)
- city parks (He did okay here, but I think only because it was a rainy couple of days. Didn't let go of check strap there)
- and our wide open training grounds (I went back after a week or two ready to work the fields, and do circles if I had to. Overall, I was very very happy with our session, and VERY thankful for the CHECK STRAP. My shoulders were sore from the initial wild man antics of clotheslining himself, but that improved greatly.
- Reading more about force fetch training and trying to figure out who's method to go with after we master the hold. We are at the point where he accepting a dowel to hold for very short times. Holy crap did he fight the fingers in the mouth, but bull headed boys can be like that.
Would you point me in the direction of some FF methods, names, books, etc...? |
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He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. -Unknown |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4449


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| 11/11/2011 5:05 AM |
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Hands down - Evan Graham's SamrtFetch. The update sounds good. You didn't say if you are giving a correction,when and what type. Sometimes with dogs like yours less energetic praise is best. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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tgatto Lake in the Hills, IL
 MH Posts:411


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| 11/11/2011 2:03 PM |
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I have used the TriTronics Retriever Training Book. A good friend of mine highly recommended it (www.amazon.com/Tri-Tronics-Retriever-Training-Jim-Dobbs/dp/0963838601/ref=sr_1_1). I think it is a great over-all reference as well. Only real issue is that it is written for Retrievers, which can have a different temperment to a GSP.
Evan Graham is good as well for a focused reference on FF. The DVDs are supposed to be outstanding to demonstrate the various aspects of Force Fetch. |
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It is watching the dogs work that I thoroughly enjoy, and love. I could get by with just watching them work - if it weren't for all the training, and the joy they exhibit when they pick-up, and deilver to hand a bird that they pointed, and you shot. - Todd |
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tgatto Lake in the Hills, IL
 MH Posts:411


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| 11/11/2011 2:11 PM |
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Posted By knightfarms on 11/10/2011 6:47 PM
Holy crap did he fight the fingers in the mouth, but bull headed boys can be like that.
OH, girls can be just as bad. Sadie did well the first couple of times with the fingers, and then she decided to clamp down . About a million things go through your head when that happens (like how am I going to work without fingers...) . Luckily, I just grabbed the scruff of her neck and screamed (ok, not the most manly response...) . She let go. It was totally my fault - I got my fingers back too far in her mouth. We are now all good - Heeling around the block with bumper in mouth... Doctors say the cast will be off in 6-weeks - JUST KIDDING ! |
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It is watching the dogs work that I thoroughly enjoy, and love. I could get by with just watching them work - if it weren't for all the training, and the joy they exhibit when they pick-up, and deilver to hand a bird that they pointed, and you shot. - Todd |
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