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FrancisMcGee Ann Arbor, MI
 MH Posts:114


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| 07/31/2009 8:00 AM |
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Gracie is about 9 months now...and we have started serious recall work. I have a few questions about your expectations for response to recall commands. I understand much of this depends on the training and temperament of the dog, but...general information/experiences would be great.
1) What level of distraction and at what age do you expect a dog to respond to a recall command? Animals, people, new environments?
2) At what point do you eliminate the check cord? 100% reliable to any and all distraction? And...how are you certain that the response will be 100%?
3) Is there a method to train or limit the range of the dog when off-leash? In sight, out of sight, etc?
4) How do you train the pup to respond to recall with prey-drive distraction...rabbits, squirrels, deer, etc.
I've never trained a pup that was quite as "bold" as Gracie. She's 100% reliable on the CC with limited distraction, even in new environments. She's 0% reliable with anything "huntable" around...squirrels, rabbits, deer (which I worry about the most.because of range). Oh, and she could care less about the normal stim of the ecollar with distraction. I have great confidence in her off leash without, but no confidence with, huntable distraction. Therefore, she's on the check cord until further notice. |
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7843


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| 07/31/2009 9:53 AM |
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Posted By FrancisMcGee on 07/31/2009 8:00 AM
1) What level of distraction and at what age do you expect a dog to respond to a recall command? Animals, people, new environments?
2) At what point do you eliminate the check cord? 100% reliable to any and all distraction? And...how are you certain that the response will be 100%?
3) Is there a method to train or limit the range of the dog when off-leash? In sight, out of sight, etc?
4) How do you train the pup to respond to recall with prey-drive distraction...rabbits, squirrels, deer, etc.
1) I expect my dogs to respond to the recall no matter what. If I call them they need to come immediately.
2) I eliminate the check cord once they are trained to come with lots of distractions, they understand what is being asked of them in all different environments and with different distractions, and they come every time on the check cord.
3) I don't limit range on mine, especially my boy, as I want to hunt with him. Each of my dogs has their own range. Belle stays fairly close, Ringo and Halo love to move out and cover lots of area. You can train range, I just never have done it. Hopefully, someone who has trained range will respond to this one. If I am in an unfamiliar area with them I will call them back to me more often just for safety reasons.
4) All my off leash training is done with an ecollar and that includes training to leave deer, rabbits, etc. You have to find the stimulation level they will respond too and use it. I only have to nick my dogs now if they decide they are going to go after a deer or rabbit. I don't usually say anything to them, just the nick as a reminder and they break off. I do it that way as I do not necessarily want them to come back to me, but instead want them to break off and leave the the critter and eventually not go after it at all. Belle and Halo both will not go after deer as they are around them allot and have learned, but have a hard time with rabbits as I do not get the training opportunity with rabbits quite as much. Ringo is still learning to leave critters alone and has to be reminded frequently. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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FrancisMcGee Ann Arbor, MI
 MH Posts:114


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| 07/31/2009 10:13 AM |
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Thanks Bev.
For some reason I missed Tessa's E-collar Training Advice post which actually covers several of my questions. Thanks for replying with additional information to this post.
I guess I was a bit afraid of "turning up" the ecollar until I get a response with distraction present. Do you do this in conjunction with the a "check" on the CC, or just keep the pressure on until you get a response off-leash? |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4450


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| 07/31/2009 10:22 AM |
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A dog's recall will depend mostly on it's training. Then comes cooperation level. The less cooperative a pup the more obedience it needs. The dog has to decide that what you want is more important than what the dog wants. A high prey drive dog can be dfficult around game. I do not trust my dogs simply b/c they are dogs. When we are at our upstate property the collars are on -period. There are few cars and one full time neighbor. This makes the wildlife feel comfortable,but uncomfortable for me. Fox roam around,deer bed on our front grass,rabbits are plentiful,and at least one pack of coyotes we know of and I don't want to loose my dogs or have harm come to them. I eliminate the check cord once the dog is collar conditioned There is a way to train range but it will be necessary to constatnly remind the dog of this.Range is preprogramed into a dog. What would you say is your dog's range? What do you want it to be? If you are uncomfortable with ranging you will need to keep the dog on a lead or use a tracker. I train my dogs on prey not by recalling them but to point them,which they do anyway. My problem is that once the animals books on out of there so do my dogs. So after a point I teach a down on cats,squirrels,rabbits and whatnot but not on deer. For deer I use the collar,if the dog moves an inch on a moving deer they get it. It has worked fine but I do not trust temptation,not ever. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4450


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| 07/31/2009 10:34 AM |
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If you have used the e-collar around distractions already but have not gotten an appropriate response what did you do to reinforce at that time? Nagging a dog with low(er) constant stimulation can cause the dog to ignore the stimulation,essentially,the neck will become desensitized and the dog learns that you can be ignored. I use a nick within 1 second on an ignored recall. I am good at reading my dogs so I know what levels to use at which times. This will take some time with you and your dog but you'll both get there in a few months. Better the dog feel it and know you are serious. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7843


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| 07/31/2009 10:47 AM |
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Posted By FrancisMcGee on 07/31/2009 10:13 AM
I guess I was a bit afraid of "turning up" the ecollar until I get a response with distraction present. Do you do this in conjunction with the a "check" on the CC, or just keep the pressure on until you get a response off-leash?
I keep the pressure on until I get the response. No CC, but I can read my dogs and also know they completely understand the recall. If you are concerned then let them drag the CC the first time you try it. The only issue is most dogs are wise the the CC and will respond with it on, so you end up with the real test happening the first time the CC is removed anyway.
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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FrancisMcGee Ann Arbor, MI
 MH Posts:114


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| 07/31/2009 11:46 AM |
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She responds well to a level 2 (out of 10 on a Tritronics Sport Basic G3) with low distraction....and the ecollar is usually not even needed (two whistle blasts and COME only).
If she's on a good scent or sees a squirrel/rabbit, level 2 just doesn't cut it...she basically ignores the stim. Pixie, to answer your question, I usually check her on the cord at that point...reiterating the command again.
As for reading her, I think I am pretty good at doing that...I guess I didn't understand to increase the stim with distraction. I will have to try that. |
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TessaGA Georgia
 MH Posts:2387


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| 07/31/2009 3:04 PM |
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Adjusting stimulation is what I am trying to figure out now too. Her entry level is 5 (plug 2 - medium) out of 18. When there is no response I up it to level 6 (plug 2 - high) that did it so far except for one time and tomorrow we will have the following set-up. Tess in sit-stay, me at a distance, with a tennis ball in between off to the side. Recall, she tends to go to grab the ball first and then come. Which is not what I want. So I will keep her on the cc but I think I will need to up the stimulation to level 7 if she doesn't respond? Or use level 6 when she turns to go to the ball, then cc if she proceeds to the ball instead of me? I have read somewhere that if one has to mostly use the medium or high setting of a level (like with Tessa, level 2, medium or high) one should use the low setting of the next level instead? We haven't even been on any heavy distractions yet...like deer... |
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To live without dogs would mean accepting a form of blindness. [Thomas McGuane]
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murphys42002 texas
 JH Posts:26


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| 07/31/2009 10:03 PM |
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To put it simply. Come means COME right now.Whoa means STOP right now.And so on.When getting the dog to come make it look at you before letting off stimulation.When it looks away hit it again until it looks at you again.Do this unt until it gets to you and puts it butt to your leg.When you get that without an e/collar you have a reliable recall .Chasing is a whole other can of worms.Try to keep that e/collar on every time you take the dog out for a romp in the woods.You'll figure out what it takes to get him to stop chasing. Good Luck |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4450


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| 08/01/2009 3:46 AM |
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I will say that I am not an e-collar expert. I would like to get other's opinion about continually using the collar until the dog looks at you. Francine |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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TessaGA Georgia
 MH Posts:2387


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| 08/01/2009 7:39 AM |
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I would like to get other's opinion about continually using the collar until the dog looks at you.
In conjunction with a command, not just pressing the button to make the dog look at you, I assume?
It is enough for me for my dog to turn and start coming towards me. I stop the stimulation at the very first step towards me (which practically coincides with her turning around). It's not important for her to look at me, as if for guidance (?) I just gave her all the guidance she needs ("come").
There are some e-collar approaches (and there are quite a few) that want to dog to become VERY handler-oriented, at all times paying attention and looking for guidance, or even staying within a certain proximity to the handler. Depending on what the dog is being trained for, that is fine. But I find it counter-productive in the field, so I stay clear of it. I just want her to do as I say when I say it but otherwise maintain her range and desire to go forward and hunt.
Francis, you may want to check out the Dobbs site, after studying all e-collar philosophies I found this a good approach:
www.dobbsdogs.com/library/pointing/index.html |
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To live without dogs would mean accepting a form of blindness. [Thomas McGuane]
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murphys42002 texas
 JH Posts:26


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| 08/01/2009 5:27 PM |
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| OK let me go a little further with this.If you want to teach your dog how to quarter with an e/collar you yell its name,whistle or what ever you use to turn the dog.At the same time I call I hit the dog with stimulation just until he turns and he should just keep running straight when I let off.When I yell come I use the e/collar untill he turns and looks at me and he usualy runs straight to me.iIf the dog looks away it is think what ever a dog thinks.I want it to here come and not think about anything but I need to get back.Now if you don't care about turning your dog I guess letting off a lil earler is ok.I was just taught to make it look at you.after a few sessions you will probably notice pup whipping around and looking and running back. |
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7843


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| 08/01/2009 8:04 PM |
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| I was taught pretty much the same as murphys on the recall with the ecollar. He is absolutely right on the response. All my dogs whip around and run right back to me. No thought, just high tailing it back on the Here command. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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FrancisMcGee Ann Arbor, MI
 MH Posts:114


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| 08/02/2009 7:04 AM |
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Thanks for the Dobbs Training information. Essentially, this is exactly the method I am using.
I guess the "core" of my question is what level of distraction and what type of progress (with training time, etc) should you expect using the ecollar. We definitely do not live in an area where I can let her off the cc if I don't have a 100% recall. If she chases a rabbit or squirrel or deer, she'll either end up in someone's yard, a road, or worse.
And, I don't want to get the ecollar up to the "GSP x-ray" stage if the expectation for a 9 month old pup with high prey drive is to hunt both fur and feather.
TexasBelle, you say that when your pups hear the HERE command, they whip around and high tail it back to you. But, are you saying that Ringo would do that with a rabbit 10 feet in front of him? Or would he give chase? And, what level of the ecollar would you hit him with if he did? |
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TessaGA Georgia
 MH Posts:2387


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| 08/02/2009 8:38 AM |
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While not new to dog training I am new to the e-collar and bird dogs, so take any advice from me for what it is, a newbie's opinion. I took a lot of pointers from the folks at the local NAVHDA chapter who have been extremely helpful all along. Their consensus seems to be to not use the e-collar until they are 1 year old and just continue the conditioning and check cord work, balancing out obedience and fun. Looking back I think I could have used the e-collar on Tessa at 9 months with no ill effects and I would now be 4 months ahead of the game, but I decided to wait.
Re progress, I'd say it depends on the individual dog and the skill, consistency and effort of the handler, and the number of times the dog gets the opportunity to do wrong (or right). My dog trainer has a "total recall" program where you board the dog with her for 2 weeks and she will get a 100% reliable recall under distraction on that dog during those two weeks (longer if needed depending on dog), with the e-collar. Here is a link to her site and a video demonstrating what they do (incidentally, on a GSP):
www.pacesettertrainingkennel.com/videos.htm
Re distractions, I would say it also depends on the dog and what constitutes distractions of different levels. With Tessa, distractions are a smell, rabbit shit, a tennis ball, a flying dummy, being very engaged playing with another dog, a bird, a rabbit, a cat, a deer, probably in that order. We have reached the rabbit shit level but past that I am thinking about using the check cord a little longer, at some point in conjunction with the e-collar. I also do not want to use the e-collar yet with the distraction coming from quail or anything in the field (unless it's an emergency situation), because she has been allowed to chase in the field, and I want to use the cc first to steady her on birds. So I assume our reliable recall is still a few weeks away.
Re areas to work your dog in, do you know of any fenced in baseball fields, school yards, playgrounds, sports fields, etc you could use? These usually don't allow dogs, but in our area you can get by during off hours/season and if of course, you clean up after the dog! Is there a hunting club or NAVHDA chapter near you, or fairly near you? Where are you? |
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To live without dogs would mean accepting a form of blindness. [Thomas McGuane]
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7843


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| 08/02/2009 1:40 PM |
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| With Ringo, he is better at breaking off game if I actually call him with the here command. I sometimes have to use the nick to remind him, but he generally will break off and return. The more difficult scenario is when we are out in the field hunting and he gets after a critter. Then I still have to use the nick to break him off and get him hunting again. In that case I do not call him back to me with the here, but just nick him and say nothing. I sometimes have to turn it up to get his attention in that instance. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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FrancisMcGee Ann Arbor, MI
 MH Posts:114


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| 08/03/2009 5:52 AM |
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Thanks for the information everyone.
Tessa-our "everyday" lives are spent in Ann Arbor, MI. It is fairly suburban in most areas. We have a great park system which is awesome for dogs...but it is also populated around all the parks. I think the population density concentrates all of the rabbits and squirrels in one area We do have several fenced in baseball fields, etc. Honestly, these aren't a problem at all. Very good recall in these areas...but...there isn't really any "prey" around the fenced in areas. Our hunting, vacation, and free time is spent in Michigan's UP where there is plenty of space and freedom for the pup to run off leash with minimal danger. But, as you know...training must be done daily...so I'm stuck with suburbia.
Anyways, I think I'll discuss this in more detail with our trainer in early Sept. I talked to him this week...his suggestion was to hold off on increasing the power of the collar because of her age. This will be her first bird season, and he wants to see if her prey drive for "fur" decreases as she is exposed to more "feather".
Thanks again for the great advice. |
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pixie bee
 MH Posts:4450


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| 08/03/2009 6:24 AM |
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quote: and he wants to see if her prey drive for "fur" decreases as she is exposed to more "feather". Not likely. If she has chased a rabbit or 2 already she is proably hooked. Some GSPs are more fur oriented then others. Being interested in scent and poo doesn't mean she will be a fur dog.Any dog that does not point and or chase a seen rabbit does not have enough drive,in my book. I agree with your trainer about not turning up the heat right now before her first season b/c this may ruin her drive for all game,shorten her range and destroy confidence and boldness. When my dogs are out on birds they usually do not bother with other scents,unless we have not had contacts in quite a while,then they only need a here command to draw them away. We are not above shooting a rabbit that was spooked,tho. |
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"Time with my dogs clears my mind, renews my faith, and lets me see the world as it is. My only regret loving dogs as I do, is the misery of their early departure." Robert G. Wehle
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TessaGA Georgia
 MH Posts:2387


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| 08/03/2009 8:11 AM |
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Okay, I would keep working on the off-leash recall even if it's a boring fenced in baseball field. If the dog comes, great! If not, and since the dog obviously knows the command very well, I would use low stimulation to reinforce the recall and collar condition the dog at the same time. That is very low stimulation just enough needed to make the dog come in the rare instances it choses not to. If you watch the two videos in my link you get a good idea about low stimulation training (although their goal was to have the dog pay attention to the handler without the recall which is something I do NOT do for fear it may shorten her range and independence, I just use stimulation with the recall command). You can introduce distractions such as toys or balls, food, people offering food, people calling the dog, another dog, etc. It's not the same level as a real rabbit but it sure does tempt Tessa. Once the dog is reliable under such distractions you can step up to the next level (fur and feathers) BUT only once the dog has exhibited drive, birdiness, range, independence, boldness and confidence, and exuberantly so. Then you can start toning down, or shaping things, all the while keeping a good balance between restraint and fun/rewards. That's my plan anyway. Mostly in theory still. |
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To live without dogs would mean accepting a form of blindness. [Thomas McGuane]
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Texas Belle Austin, TX
 MH Posts:7843


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| 08/03/2009 11:08 AM |
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So far, my crew has never lost their interest in fur or game birds. They don't pay much mind to non-game birds anymore. Although they like to pester my brother's chickens. Belle and Halo will not chase deer anymore, Halo will still go after a rabbit if I am not paying attention (I can verbally call her off though), Ringo will still give chase to all and needs stimulation as a reminder. Squirrels are fair game for play, but they don't pay them any attention when they are in serious hunting mode. Armadillos are also a game for my gang, but they are so fast and go to ground so quickly that the dogs usually don't mess with them for long. Also, don't see them that often. More likely see rabbits and deer. For those folks taking their dogs in the field and also living in poisonous snake country I would recommend snake avoidance training which is done with an ecollar. Dogs will go right up to a rattlesnake or other snakes if not trained. Get a pro to do it though. I have gotten my dogs trained anywhere from 6 months to a year, but the memory seems to be more permanent around 1 year. |
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Bev Quarles, the Pointer Sisters (Belle and Halo), the Outlaw GSP (Johnny Ringo) and the little Princess (Fauna)
Yellow Rose GSPs
"A dog has the soul of a philosopher." - Plato |
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